![]() ![]() So I go off on a pair of shitty bindings from a bad batch that Atomic put out and never recalled? What a bunch of crap. Am I suppose to convince the shop to do what you're talking about here? I don't think so.Īnd if I buy a pair of SX11's with these bindings on them and don't know any of the particulars you're talking about here, (and neither does the shop owner), then same thing. Suppose I go to a mountain shop and rent a set of skis with Atomic Centro 412 bindings. I mean.I appreciate all of the knowledge you have about all of this, but really. 1018 performs better, but same weak metal band. Then reinsert boot to check position again, and repeat the process until screw is flush with housing while boot is in (or to a position 1-2mm inside the housing if you wanna try L7's suggestion to reduce pre-release by increasinig forward pressure).īonus points: Insert and remove boot a few times to verify that your screw position remains where you just set it.Īgreed: Atomic should try to suck less. The screw position won't be perfect on your first guess, so remove boot again, and turn screw again to refine its position. L7 means you should turn the forward pressure screw "blindly" while boot is out, then stop turning screw, insert boot, and check position of forward pressure screw while boot is in. If you want to see how frail the metal band looks, slide the heel piece off the track and look at the wimpy grooves that interface with the wormscrew on the underside of the heelpiece. No, turning that screw with boot in can strip/warp the metal band. The boot has to be in the binding to set the forward pressure. No personal experience on the NEOX but the older one is not stout enough for anything beyond recreational skiing(1018 aside). If nothing else, I think it's BS to have to compensate for a poor design. The band on the Atomic is really thin and a poor design in my opinion. ![]() Any binding that strips if you turn up the forward pressure is crap in my opinion. So, set the binding like normal, then release the boot and turn an additional X amount of turns? You might want to specify how far or at least give an idea. I'm assuming you mean, that turning the screw up beyond the normal setting should not be done with the boot in. How else do you set the forward pressure? The boot has to be in the binding to set the forward pressure. If this has been done there is a good chance the worm screw (or band) has been stripped. It should not be done with any binding but other bindings may tolerate it, these will not. This is the source of most prerelease problems. 2) NEVER EVER turn up the forward pressure screw with the boot already in the binding. ![]()
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